May 17, 2007.

 We awoke for breakfast quite early as the girls had much shopping to do. Breakfast consists of fresh OJ, a warm flat bread similar to naan, croissants, coffee, tea and a multitude of jams including a delicious fig jam that we all seemed to love.

Wandering is the plan and getting lost is part of this process. The medina is just such a massive jumble of streets it really is not worth the effort to try to understand where you are. Any directional aids that get erected are quickly taken down by the locals who wish to preserve their ‘guide’ status. What these rogue guides don’t realize though, is that when you walk by any of them and they all ask you ‘Would you like to see the tanneries?’ or in another section of the medina they all pipe up and ask if you would like to see the spice souk, you know damn well that you are very close to your destination. You still may never find it but it’s close. Kids being kids and being lazy and all, especially in the blistering sun, the last thing they want to do is guide you for 20 minutes for the nominal amount tourists part with. So instead, they anchor themselves just outside the attraction and try to snag you. Lazy, but these kids are smart, if they take a liking to mom then they’ve hooked us for sure – we are parting with our money.

Walking through the main square we find where the double decker tourist bus departs from. We all jump on and climb to the top for the best views of the city tour. The main sites of Marrakech are within the medina but it is interesting to see how modern this country is becoming with all the high end apartments and infrastructure being built. European money is quickly changing this ancient and wonderful place. From within the medina one would think they have stepped back in time but as soon as you step out you see all the comforts of a large city.

Atop the bus we hit temperatures of 41 degrees. Looking at our watches we realize that it is 1:00 and begin to realize how stupid it was to jump on in the middle of the day. The bus ride was fun but we all couldn’t wait to get back to the ‘funky called Medina’ (that’s some edited Tone-Loc’ lyrics thrown at you for those of you that have no clue).

For dinner we made our way back to the main square of Jamaa Al-Fna. Empty in the day time, and now packed with story-tellers, snake charmers, and home of the world’s largest BBQ. Now this is awesome!! We wandered around, almost filled my pants getting too close to some snakes, listened in on some old world Arabic story-telling, and finally succumbed to the smells and settled in on a BBQ stall for some fresh hot fish and seafood.

I had read about the nights in Jamaa Al-Fna but you have to witness the story telling firsthand to really appreciate the art of it. Completely geared for the local Moroccan, this is not a staged tourist market with BBQ stalls. This is authentic and the storytelling was incredible to see. In the middle of 20-30 men is a little old lady sitting on an over-sized can telling the most amazing story. She moves her hands quickly and looks intensely into the eyes of her listeners as she makes her way through to what must be the most fascinating story. Everyone is enthralled in what she has to say and hangs on every word. These fully grown men were like kids listening to Santa.

Exhausted, we hail a taxi and head home, unwilling to compete with the challenges of the medina.

Tomorrow will be another incredible day. Insha’Allah.